Side quest from Panama: A 30th Birthday in Pedasí

After Leigh’s birthday trip to Isla Iguana, we were grabbing snacks at the little beach shack at Playa El Arenal when the fishermen pulled in with their catch. We walked away with four red snapper in a metal bucket. Literally straight out of the water.

That night the boys scaled, Charly did a lot of the heavy lifting, and the kitchen turned into a full fish station under the Happy Birthday banner. The recipe? My Paw Paw’s (that’s what I call my grandma). She walked me through it over a very lively family group text, and it’s SO delicious. Here’s how to make it at home, no Panamanian fishing boat required.

Four red snapper in a metal bucket, straight off the boat
Four red snapper, straight off the boat
Prepping the fish in the kitchen
Fish station
The finished steamed red snapper with scallions
The birthday snapper

What you need

For the fish

  • 1 whole red snapper, gutted and scaled (or more, if your pot fits them)
  • Salt
  • Cornstarch, for a light coating
  • Fresh ginger, sliced
  • Scallions (green onions), sliced

For the finish

  • About 2 tablespoons canola oil
  • A few teaspoons olive oil
  • Soy sauce
  • Rice, to serve

Gear

  • A pot big enough to hold the fish, with a lid
  • A heatproof bowl to flip upside down inside the pot
  • A bowl or dish to lay the fish in
  • A fork, to check if it’s done

How to make it

  1. Clean the fish. Gut it, scale it, and wash it really well. Then pat it completely dry. You want it dry before you steam.
  2. Season. Rub salt all over the outside, really well. Add a light coating of cornstarch. No oil yet!
  3. Slit and add ginger. Cut a few slits into the sides of the fish and lay ginger slices along the sides.
  4. Set up your steamer. Flip a bowl upside down in the bottom of the pot and add water. Set a bowl or dish on top of it, lay the fish in the dish, and cover.
  5. Steam for about 15 minutes. Don’t over-steam it. Poke it with a fork to check: if it flakes, it’s cooked.
  6. Plate and top. Move the fish off the steaming dish onto a plate and pile sliced scallions on top.
  7. The sizzle. Mix the canola and olive oil (the olive oil gives it a buttery taste) and heat to around 280°F. Pour it over the fish, just enough to lightly coat. Don’t use too much oil.
  8. Finish and serve. Add a coating of soy sauce on top and serve over rice.

Family tips

  • Paw Paw’s shortcut: skip the two-oil mix. Use one oil, stir the soy sauce right into it, heat until it’s sizzling hot, and pour it all over the fish at once. Careful, soy in hot oil spatters.
  • Oil only goes on at the end. There was some family debate about this one. The hot oil and soy sauce are always after steaming, never before.
  • No fisherman nearby? Costco sells red snapper.

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